How to build a pallet: 48 × 40 cut list, nailing pattern and assembly

This guide builds the most common pallet in North America: a 48 × 40 in GMA-style stringer pallet with notched stringers. It gives the cut list in actual dimensions, the position of every board, the notch geometry, the nailing pattern and the assembly order used on a pallet line, plus a simplified version you can build with lumber-yard 2 × 4s and 1 × boards. You can open this pallet in the designer to see it in 3D, change any dimension, and print a drawing and parts list.

#Cut list: GMA-style 48 × 40 pallet

All sizes are actual dimensions, thickness × width × length.

Fasteners: 84 helically threaded nails, 2-1/4 in long, about 0.112 in wire (11-1/2 gauge).

Overall height: 5/8 + 3-1/2 + 5/8 = 4-3/4 in (121 mm).

Weight: about 59 lb (27 kg) built from green mixed hardwood, about 39 lb kiln dried to 19% moisture, and about 37 lb at 12%. See pallet weight.

#Stringer layout and notches

The three stringers run the 48 in length. The outer two are flush with the edges and the center one is centered.

The clear opening between stringers is about 17-15/16 in.

Each stringer has two notches in its bottom edge for side forklift entry:

The side view reads 6 / 9 / 18 / 9 / 6 in. The opening under the notch is the notch depth plus the bottom board, about 1-7/8 in; the Uniform Standard for Wood Pallets recommends about 2 in by 9 in, a flat top of at least 7 in, and a radius between 1/2 and 1-1/2 in. Never cut square notch corners: they concentrate stress and split.

#Deckboard positions

Measure each board's leading edge from the same end of the pallet.

Top deck (equal 3-1/4 in gaps):

Bottom deck (interior boards grouped between the notches):

The bottom lead boards end at 5-1/2 in, before the notch starts at 6 in, and the interior boards occupy 15 to 33 in, clear of both notches (6 to 15 in and 33 to 42 in). That leaves 9-1/2 in openings for forklift tines, and 3-3/4 in gaps between the interior boards.

#Nailing pattern

The Uniform Standard for Wood Pallets (2012 edition, Table 5) sets the minimum fasteners per deckboard-to-stringer joint by board width: 2 for boards up to 5-1/4 in wide, 3 for boards over 5-1/4 in up to 7 in.

Nail length check: 2-1/4 in minus the 5/8 in deckboard leaves 1-5/8 in in the stringer, more than the 1-1/4 in minimum penetration.

Placement tips:

• Spread the nails across the board width and keep them away from board ends and edges. EPAL, for comparison, requires nails at least 20 mm (about 3/4 in) from edges.
• Stagger nails so they do not line up along one grain line in the stringer, which invites splitting.
• Keep nails out of knots and away from the notches.
• Drive heads flush. Proud nail heads damage loads; overdriven heads crush the deckboard.

#Assembly order

This is the order a pallet line or a shop jig follows.

1. Cut the parts to the cut list. Check thickness, because deckboard thickness affects nail penetration and height.
2. Notch the stringers. In production, a notcher cuts all notches at once. In a shop, drill a 1-1/2 in hole at each inner corner (giving the 3/4 in radius), then cut between the holes with a jigsaw or band saw.
3. Set the stringers in a jig at 0, 19-5/16 and 38-5/8 in, notches facing down, ends aligned.
4. Nail the top lead boards first, flush with the stringer ends and square to them. They fix the pallet's length and squareness.
5. Check squareness. Measure both diagonals of the top deck; they should match within the greater of about 1 in or 1.5%.
6. Nail the interior top boards at their positions. A spacer block cut to 3-1/4 in makes the gaps consistent.
7. Flip the pallet.
8. Nail the bottom lead boards, flush with the ends, then the three interior boards at 15, 22-1/4 and 29-1/2 in.
9. Inspect: no split boards, no shiners (nail points sticking through), no proud heads, flat within about 1/4 in corner to corner.
10. Treat and mark if needed: heat treatment and ISPM 15 marking can only be done by a certified facility. See heat-treated pallets.

#DIY version with lumber-yard boards

Dimension lumber is easier to find than pallet stock. Using 2 × 4s and 1 × boards gives a slightly heavier, taller pallet.

Buy two 8 ft 2 × 4s (four 48 in pieces, one spare), two 8 ft 1 × 6s (four 40 in pieces) and four 8 ft 1 × 4s (eight 40 in pieces).

• Stringer positions: 0, 19-1/4 and 38-1/2 in from the edge.
• Overall height: 3/4 + 3-1/2 + 3/4 = 5 in.
• Board feet: about 15.7 (10.4 in the decks, 5.25 in the stringers).
• Fasteners: 84 ring-shank nails at least 2 in long (3/4 in deck + 1-1/4 in penetration; 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 in is better), or exterior deck screws in the same pattern.
• Skip the notches for a simple two-way pallet, or cut them as above. A notched 2 × 4 keeps 2-1/4 in of depth above a 1-1/4 in notch.

Softwood from the lumber yard is lighter and less dense than pallet hardwood, so this pallet suits moderate loads. Do not rely on it for heavy racked loads without an engineering rating. See pallet load capacity.

#Safety

Wear eye and hearing protection, especially with nail guns and saws. Keep hands clear of the nailing line; pallet nails can deflect off knots. Do not use reclaimed pallet wood of unknown origin for food contact or indoor furniture without knowing how it was treated. The stamp on a pallet tells you how it was treated; see pallet stamps and markings.

#How manufacturers build pallets at scale

Commercial pallet plants cut deckboards and stringers from cants or rough lumber on resaws and gang saws, notch stringers on dedicated notchers, and assemble on automated nailing machines that place and drive every nail in one pass. Pallets are then stacked, optionally heat treated in a chamber and stamped. The design is usually specified on a spec sheet; see how to read a pallet spec sheet. If you need a quantity built, the 48 × 40 template is a good starting spec for a quote.